Today I am in México. I´ve never been here before. In the day and a half that I´ve been here I´ve only seen about ten square blocks of the city, the immediate area that adjoins the luxurious hotel that the Fulbright Commission is paying for us to stay at. Hotel Geneve. It is a very nice area that feels safe and has sushi restaurants and 7-11´s, and I don´t think it´s likely that the rest of the city bares even the slightest resemblance to it, the Zona Rosa. Today we, the 30 English Teaching Assistants from México, Colombia, Venezuela, and Chile, spent the entire day giving and listening to each other´s ten minute presentations on our experiences thus far. It was so fascinating to hear about how everyone´s grant has been going. Almost everyone had made impressive Powerpoints with fancy photos, but I didn´t, and I didn´t prepare for my talk, so I was really worried as it got closer and closer for me to fill those ten endless minutes. The work I do is not all that interesting, or at least not very unique from what other grantees do, and I decided that I would focus more on social and emotional aspects of my experience in Colombia so far. No one else had talked about these–there was definitely a tacit pressure to talk about our experiences in a professional context, ie, what objectives we had accomplished, what side projects we were undertaking, our takes on various cultural aspects, etc. Very interesting, but I felt compelled to just open up and be honest about some of the rawer, more difficult parts of my five months. Things like loneliness, isolation, shame, and disappointment. Living abroad is hard–I can´t be the only one who feels these things. I know I´m not. But one has to be very brave to open up to others about them. I felt like I had to be candid about these factors that have been a very large part of my experience, even if they´re just the negative grooves I find my mind frequently falling into.
It has taken me a lot of time to adjust. I don´t know why. It just has. I was unhappy for the first two and a half months because of my living situation, living far, far to the north, away from everything, with an extremely wealthy husband and wife and their two year-old daughter. I lived in a big house in a compound, enclosed by a gate with a guard, right next to two Walmart-sized supermarkets. I didn´t pay anything, which was so generous of them, but when I came home in the evening leftovers from dinner were waiting for me, cold, on the stove, and the house was quiet and dark, the parents either already in bed or splayed on the sofas upstairs, watching American crime shows on TV. It was difficult not to have my own space and awkward to occupy theirs. Now I´m by myself and much happier about several things, but it is still difficult. It is a different kind of loneliness. It is something that never leaves me, really, a thread that has always been embroidered alongside my life, and very often wrapped several times around my hands. These months have been very introspective.
And when there is loneliness there is shame because I know it is self-imposed, I know I could and should have close relationships if I would just give it more effort. I read other Fulbrighters´ blogs or see other messages online that tell me how they are thriving, how they have hit the ground running and are collecting one friendship after another, and deservedly so, and I feel terrible, mortified at my abject failure on so many fronts. I had to fill out a Midterm Report the other week on my progress and did my best to put a veneer over what I see as a slipshod surface with many unexplainable holes. I was honest, just not forthcoming. There are so many levels of honesty. There are the facts… and then there are feelings. And I think that these too are important.
You move to another country and you think you will be a new person, the person you always wanted to be, the person you for so long pretended to be although you fooled nobody. There, you will fool everyone, you will fool even yourself for so long that the new you will become dominant and the old self will be forgotten. But no. I totally believe that you can change if you want to in the gradual accumulation of new habits and beliefs and thought processes, but it has nothing to do with a change of residence, or even language. You realize that you are exactly the same person, and this realization is extremely discouraging… and then, after many months and much maturity, calming, fleetingly. I am myself, and wherever I go, there I am. There and nowhere else. And where I go is because I took myself there–I decided to leave where I was previously and head for the new place. At least, this is how it should be. And I am an adult–though I still feel like a girl, and probably always will, maybe. I am capable–my body, my hands, my mind. My body could create and carry a child right now–I could be a mother in only nine months, if I were to want to. And I could move to Paris, or Thailand, and I could get a job with a magazine as a foreign correspondent, or I could begin a master´s degree, or I could stay right here in Bogotá for the rest of my life. It´s all a matter of wanting and not wanting, leaving and staying, believing and discounting.
It´s so hard for me to ask for help when I need it. And I need it constantly. My typical response to loneliness is to pull back and isolate myself more, feeling ashamed and fearful. I am learning not to do this, and it is an uphill battle. But I know that I am being tried and formed and refined, right now. And so I choose to pay attention, to look for the meaning in motions that look like pointless zigzags, trying to believe that there is a point, there is a pattern, and there is abundantly more grace than I would ever dare ask for. I haven´t been feeling very lonely lately–that´s not why I wrote this. But these were the thoughts and reflections I really wanted to share today, the feelings I am sure all of us have struggled with and kept to ourselves, left out of our pictures and blogs and cheery letters sent back home, kept out on purpose. And just as there are good and valid reasons to hold back, there are also good reasons to be completely and embarrassingly honest. It is always very freeing.
